Budget travel in Spain
January 25th, 2008Spain used to be one of the cheapest countries in Western Europe to visit. Since it joined the European Union, though, its economy has boomed, and it’s no longer bottom dollar – particularly for American visitors who have seen the dollar weaken against the euro.
However, there are ways to economise on your Spanish vacation. For instance if you don’t mind compromising a little on facilities, you can find a room for as little as 13 euros a night (Pension Barez, in Salamanca).
Rather than looking for a hotel, look for the word ‘Pension’ or ‘Fonda’ - usually small, family run businesses with a limited number of rooms. Although some are in seedy neighbourhoods, others are extremely central (the Barez is just off the Plaza Mayor). You’ll have to go out to eat, and the furnishings may be old and unfashionable, but in most cases you’ll get a clean, decent (if small) room and friendly reception. You probably won’t get free wifi or a minibar; if you’re travelling on a tight budget, do you really care?
If you don’t mind a dorm bed, hostels in the major Spanish cities are another option, with beds at around EUR 15. For summer holidays, a reservation is best, via a site like hostelworld.com, which also shows budget hotels. But if you want privacy, hotels are extremely competitive with the hostels – several pensiones in Granada, for instance, offer double rooms at not far off the Oasis Backpacker Hostel’s EUR 36 price.
There are several ways to economise on food but you have to know what you’re doing, otherwise you could end up paying more.
Tapas are popular as a way to have a cheap snack – in Seville, head for Manolo’s on Plaza Alfafa where you can get a beer and a tapa for about three euros, if you want a very light lunch. In northern Spain, look for pinchos (pinxos in Catalan) which means the same thing. If you eat more than two or three tapas, though, you may end up spending more than you would for a set meal at one of the cheaper restaurants.
Remember also that a ‘racion’ is several times the size of a tapa – and several times the price.
Look for restaurants with a cheap fixed menu and make sure you know what’s included. Many will include ‘pan, postre y vino’ - bread, dessert, and wine – but if you want a bottle of mineral water, that’s extra. In Barcelona, the Quatre Gats lunch menu at EUR 13 is a stand out bargain – fine cuisine in the Catalan tradition, in an art deco bistro - but restaurants off the Born and in the business districts offer set lunches at below EUR 10.
Going to bed early can also save you money in Spain, as drinks can cost more after 11 o’clock when the bars shift into party time.
Or consider taking a picnic. If you like seafood, Spanish supermarkets are full of tins of mussels, octopus, tuna, and calamares that cost very little and go well with a hunk of bread. Add some fresh fruit according to the season, and you have a picnic for EUR 2-3 a head.
Transport within Spain is relatively cheap, though train fares have increased over recent years. Buses are always cheaper and in some cases they’re faster, too. For instance Madrid-Segovia takes two hours on the train and just over one by bus; the Bilbao-Barcelona route is two hours shorter by bus and much cheaper.
Most historic monuments charge to get in. Watch out for free days though; the Escorial, for instance, is free on Wednesday to all EU citizens, as is the Descalzas Reales in Madrid. The great Mosque on Cordoba has a different approach, opening for free from 830 till 10 every morning – and that’s a great time to see it, with excellent light and relatively few people.
If you just want to see inside a cathedral, attend mass first thing in the morning. It will be free. A warning though; not all parts of the cathedral will be opened or lit up. In particular, sacristies containing art works may be closed. But at least you’ll know if you want to come back later.
Finally, don’t forget some of the best shows in town are free. Many municipal museums don’t charge; for instance the archaeological museum in Granada (actually very interesting, though all the labels are in Spanish only). In Barcelona, the mime artists on the Ramblas are also free (though make sure your wallet is safe from pickpockets or it could be an expensive evening out). And there’s nothing like a flamenco wedding at the Sagrario, in Seville, to immerse you thoroughly in Andalusian culture – you just have to be there at the right time.